June 8, 2006

Bridal Gowns Follow Timeless Trends

By SAMANTHA CRITCHELL
AP Fashion Writer
NEW YORK (AP) - The more bridal gowns change, the more they stay the same.
Carolina Herrera, who has designed wedding gowns since 1986, says that brides today come to her with the idea that they want to be different, more fashion-forward. They ask for dresses with uneven hems, or say they want bold colors, even black or red.
But when the big day comes, they’re wearing a white princess gown, complete with veil, train and high-heeled shoes, just like their mothers did.
“How different can a bride really be?” Herrera wonders aloud.
(A bride-to-be also usually comes to the first fitting saying her future husband prefers her hair long and flowing, but that usually changes, too, Herrera says with a laugh. Many brides go down the aisle with their hair up in Cinderella-style chignons.)
It’s much more important for a bride to look and feel her best than to look cutting edge, Herrera says.
“There are so many things a bridal gown has to be: The dress has to be special, white, innocent and traditional,” she says. “And I don’t believe a bride should be too sexy. ... But there’s also a lot of fantasy.”
Such restrictions don’t leave a lot of room on the corseted bodice for design innovation.
The plus side is that bridal gowns generally don’t fall victim to fashion trends — styles change too slowly to ever be in or out.
Bridal fashion doesn’t have to be stale, though. Dress shapes can change — strapless has become a top choice, for example — and there are always new embellishments. The bows, embroidery or lace that decorate bridal gowns wouldn’t look right on most other evening gowns.
“There shouldn’t be a ‘trend’ in bridal,” Herrera says. “It should be an evolution.”
One subtle touch that has become popular in recent years is pastel trims, such as a sash or some fabric flowers in a blush pink or light green. Herrera’s upcoming spring collection features a delicate eyelet gown with sage green grosgrain ribbons, inspired by 18th century French gardens.
Los Angeles-based designer Monique Lhuillier is going one step farther next season: She’s adding blush- and latte-colored dresses.
“I’ve been doing bridal for a while. The silhouettes change but only slightly. I wanted to try something new,” Lhuillier says.
But she quickly adds, “They’re not shocking. I’d call it ‘barely there’ color. They’re for a girl who is up to date on fashion, the girl who wants to take her wedding to the next level.”
And since she did embrace one new thing, Lhuillier says the shapes of the dresses are mostly traditional. “They’re very structured and there’s not a single bead on them. I wouldn’t do beading, color and a modern shape all at once.”
Her favorite spring gowns include a chantilly lace V-neck gown with sheer fabric straps and seams that skim the body; an off-the-shoulder blush dress with rolled roses that come up on one shoulder and resurface on the bottom of the skirt; and a V-neck in the light brown latte color, with a velvet sash.
Currently, the two most popular looks are the traditional bride in an over-the-top gown, preferably a big princess gown with a delicate top, or the bride who wants to show off her figure and chooses a dress cut closer to the body — “more like a goddess movie star,” Lhuillier says.
Designer Reem Acra sees more of that flamboyant bride. “Now it’s about the big wedding,” she says. “Everything is over the top, and the theme of the dress is so important. It dictates the theme of the wedding.”
“I already embellish a lot and then they (the brides) ask for more!” Acra says.
Brides also want daintier silhouettes, and Acra noticed that waistlines are getting higher, which is also a ready-to-wear trend.
Acra sells more ivory-colored gowns than white. She thinks ivory can offer both elegance and a hint of old-fashionedness, while white risks looking cheap.
Veils have become increasingly important because brides look at their outfit as an “ensemble.” “Women love the embellished veils, which must match the dress. It’s like a sweater set,” she says.
Acra suggests brides give themselves at least six months to put together their wedding wardrobe.
How will they know when they find the right gown?
“You feel it,” she says. “If you don’t feel it, don’t buy it. You should glow in the gown.”